CLA-2-52:S:N:N3H:352 873412

Mr. R. Dorf
Dorf international Ltd.
20 Vesey Street
Suite 1400
New York, New York 10007

RE: The tariff classification of plain woven fabric which has been woven in Pakistan and bleached, dyed and finished in Turkey.

Dear Mr. Dorf:

In your letter dated April 13, 1992, on behalf of your client Haskell Specialty Products, Inc., you requested a classification ruling.

Two samples of fabric accompanied your ruling request. The first, identified as style 648 bleached, is a 100% cotton plain woven fabric which has been bleached and finished. It contains 25.2 single yarns per centimeter in the warp and 22 single yarns per centimeter in the filling. The fabric is constructed using 34/1 c.c. yarns in the warp and 40/1 c.c. yarns in the filling. This product weighs approximately 84.8 g/m2 and will be imported in 45/46 inch widths. Based on the data provided the average yarn number for this merchandise has been calculated to be 55 in the metric system. The second sample, identified as style 648 black, is a 100% cotton plain woven fabric which has been dyed a uniform black color and has been finished. Its construction, width, weight and average yarn number is identical to the first sample and it varies only in having been dyed a single uniform color.

The applicable subheading for the sample designated as style 648 bleached will be 5208.21.4060, Harmonized Tariff Schedule of the United States (HTS), which provides for woven fabrics of cotton, containing 85 percent by weight of cotton, weighing not more than 200 g/m2, bleached, plain weave, weighing not more than 100 g/m2, of numbers 43 to 68, printcloth. The duty rate will be 10.2 percent ad valorem.

The applicable subheading for the sample designated as style 648 black will be 5208.31.6060, HTS, which provides for woven fabrics of cotton, containing 85 percent by weight of cotton, weighing not more than 200 g/m2, dyed, plain weave, weighing not more than 100 g/m2, other, of numbers 43 to 68, printcloth. The duty rate will be 11.4 percent ad valorem.

Both fabrics fall within textile category designation 315. Based upon international textile trade agreements, products of Pakistan are subject to quota restraints and visa requirements. The designated textile and apparel category may be subdivided into parts. If so, visa and quota requirements applicable to the subject merchandise may be affected. Since part categories are the result of international bilateral agreements which are subject to frequent renegotiations and changes, to obtain the most current information available, we suggest that you check, close to the time of shipment, the Status Report on Current Import Quotas (Restraint Levels), an internal issuance of the U.S. Customs Service, which is available for inspection at your local Customs office.

Your correspondence requested that in addition to ruling on the classification of these product that you receive a ruling on the country of origin of this merchandise for the purposes of determining their quota and visa status under The Multi-Fiber Arrangement. Your letter indicates that the greige goods will be woven in Pakistan and then exported to Turkey where the fabric will be finished. The finishing operation that will be performed in Turkey will include singeing, desizing, bleaching, resin finishing and compressive shrinking. In the case of the dyed fabric, the additional processes of mercerizing and dyeing will also be performed.

Section 12.130 of the Customs Regulations sets forth the criteria to use in determining the country of origin of textile products subject to Section 204 of the Agriculture Act of 1956, as amended. These regulations provide in part that a fabric must be both dyed and printed and subjected to at least two other substantial finishing operations before it may be considered substantially transformed into a product of the country where the fabric is finished. In Mast Industries, Inc v. United States, 11 CIT 30 (1987), aff'd, 5 Fed. Cir. 105 (1987), the Courts upheld these regulations as appropriate for use in determining the country of origin for fabric that has been woven in one country and finished in a second country.

Since in the case before us for consideration, neither fabric is printed, the finishing operations performed in Turkey fail the test for substantial transformation as set forth in Section 12.130 of the Customs Regulations. Both fabrics therefore remain products of Pakistan.

This ruling is being issued under the provisions of Section 177 of the Customs Regulations (19 C.F.R. 177).

A copy of this ruling letter should be attached to the entry documents filed at the time this merchandise is imported. If the documents have been filed without a copy, this ruling should be brought to the attention of the Customs officer handling the transaction.

Sincerely,

Jean F. Maguire
Area Director
New York
Seaport